UNCORKING THE UNEXPECTED
From an effervescent sip of a delightful sparkling rose to the intense flavours of a robust shiraz, every wine drinker has their favourite. The Australian wine industry is one of the largest and most diverse in the world, with a litany of different Australian grown and made labels readily available to us (the wine-loving consumers). Standing behind the mainstream wines are alternate varieties such as pignoletto and nebbiolo providing wine connoisseurs unique tasting experiences exploring bold, complex flavours that defy traditional expectations and showcase the versatility of the grape. Here, Emily Axford from Wineries of Western Australia chats to alternative varieties expert, Mark Cumbers, to further explore the world of these lesser-known wines.
Mark Cumbers and his partner, Pippa Nielsen, started Vineyard 28 twenty-six years ago. “Our goal was not to plant conventional varieties, but those that were not mainstream in Australia,” Mr Cumbers notes. With over 10,000 grape varieties in the world, Mr Cumbers had many to choose from, but ultimately selected Italian varieties due to Geographe’s southern Mediterranean climate. The Geographe region is also known for Italian, Spanish, Portugues and French varietals and more than thirty-six different varieties are grown in the region. To date, Vineyard 28 has produced some award-winning alternate wines as well as mainstream ones, and Mr Cumbers’ love for wine and alternate varieties has extended into his work with the Geographe Wine Industry Association and as the Chair of the WA Alternative Varieties Wine Show.
THE ‘POP’ IN POPULARITY
Although it is in our nature to have some trepidation at the thought of trying something, alternate varieties of wine have their own unique character and flavours
and who knows, one might even become your new favourite. “There are thousands of varieties that can be purchased, it should be a goal of all those who enjoy wine to expand their tasting experiences,” Mr Cumbers encourages.
The main difference between an alternative variety and a mainstream wine is its popularity. “At a point in time when it is widely grown and is widely known
as a variety by consumers, it goes from being an alternative to mainstream,” Mr Cumbers explains. Shiraz, for example, is a mainstream variety as it is grown widely across Australia and has been for a very long time. Tempranillo, on the other hand, is a relatively new variety and ten years ago it would have been considered an alternative variety with only a handful of growers, however, it has grown in popularity and now there are hundreds of producers.
Alternative varieties have a very similar creation process to mainstream wines. “We treat alternative varieties in a manner to extract the best characters and flavours possible,” Mr Cumbers details. This includes the same winemaking techniques, whether its fermentation, aging or blending, and ensuring the same care and expertise with every wine to ensure high-quality results.
A WIDE WORLD OF WINE
As aforementioned, the fact that a variety is lesser known usually only indicates that they are not widely planted or consumed as the consumer is “the one that determines if it will stay as a minority variety or become mainstream.” It is important to grow the right variety in the right climate to bring out the best in the fruit, however, as Mr Cumbers’ explains, “all regions have the capability to grow alternatives, with 10,000 varieties identified all across Europe/Asia, covering many different climates. Australia covers most, if not all, of these different climates, therefore we can grow most of them.” Popular regions for alternative varieties include Geographe in Western Australia, as well as McClaren Vale and the Adeliade Hills in South Australia.
Here are some great alternative varietals to get your tastebuds tingling:
1. Nebbiolo: Widely known and seen as the king of wines in north-west Italy, this red wine is not seen that much in Australia. It is known for its high tannins, high acidity and has aromas of red cherries, tar and rose.
2. Pignoletto: This white wine is known mostly in the Bologna region. It is often produced in a sparkling version and is tangy and crisp with high acidity. Its primary flavours are white peach, grapefruit, jasmine, pineapple and lily of the valley.
3. Arneis: Hailing from the north-western region of Italy, this dry white wine is aromatic to the nose with medium-low acidity. Its primary flavours are peach, yellow apple, honey, raw almond and nutmeg.
4. Nero D’Avola: Winner of the red wine category at the 2024 Alternative Wine Show, this full-bodied wine is known for it’s superbly bold fruit-driven flavors,
including black cherry and black plum.
5. Touriga Nacional: This bold, lush red wine hails from Portugal. Expect the palate-coating richness of blueberry, plum, blackberry, cocoa and often a subtle hint mint and violet.
6. Fiano: As a southern Italian wine, it is a rich and flavourful white wine with medium acidity. Aromatic to the nose, the primary flavours are honeydew, Asian pear, hazelnut, orange peel and pine. This wine is currently gaining popularity in Australia.
EXPANDING YOUR PALATE
Due to alternative varieties being grown more consistently around the world, Australian consumers often assume that these alternate varieties are
imported from somewhere else instead of grown here in Australia. As you now know, this is not the case. “Many Australians are still relatively new to wine and the wide range of varieties and styles available,” Mr Cumbers explains. Festivals, tastings and other educational initiatives all help showcase these delectable wines, the wineries that grow them and gives consumers a chance to experience them. The WA Alternative Varietal Wine Show is one of these opportunities, while also allowing winemakers to improve the quality of the wine through review. “Having people who have history and knowledge of these varieties help advance the quality of the wines being produced,” Mr Cumbers details. Awards and trophies are also a result of the show, and other wine shows, and this allows more public promotion and visibility of how good many different varieties and wine styles can be.
To conclude, Mr Cumbers leaves us with some parting advice: “Next time you are in a restaurant, wine bar, liquor store or even visiting a winery, be adventurous and try something new.”
Images courtesy of Vineyard 28